Attempting
to control fleas on our pets is a multi-step process. Adult
fleas spend most of their time on an animal, but the flea
eggs, larvae,
and pupae
are found in abundance in the environment such as in
carpeting, rugs, bedding, and grass. For every flea that you
see on your pet, there are likely to be hundreds of eggs and
larvae in your home and yard. Therefore, a truly effective
flea control program always includes treating the
environment as well as treating your pet. These are the
essential steps for a successful flea control program:
- Remove fleas from the indoor environment.
- Remove fleas from the outdoor environment.
- Remove fleas from pets.
- Keep immature forms of fleas from developing.
Ingredients
of flea control products can vary and include
adulticides, chemicals that can kill immature forms, insect
growth regulators/development inhibitors, or combinations
thereof. The choice of products will need to be based on the
extent of the flea infestation;
the species, breed, health status, and age of the pet; the
environment; presence of other pets; and special family
needs (e.g., infants, people with asthma).
Flea Control in the Indoor
Environment
Indoor flea control involves mechanically removing all
stages of the fleas, killing any remaining adults, and
preventing immature forms from developing.
-
Start by vacuuming thoroughly, especially below
drapes, under furniture edges, and where your pet
sleeps. It is estimated that vacuuming can remove up to
50% of flea eggs. Vacuum daily in high traffic areas,
weekly in others. Each time, seal your vacuum bag in a
plastic bag and discard it immediately. Do NOT
place mothballs or flea collars in the vacuum, since
toxic fumes could result.
-
Use a product that will kill any remaining adult
fleas and also stop the development of eggs and larvae.
You will need a product that contains both an adulticide
and an insect growth regulator (IGR), such as Nylar (pyriproxyfen)
or methoprene. This can be in the form of carpet
powders, foggers, or sprays.
Foggers are especially good for large open areas.
Surface sprays can reach areas such as baseboards,
moldings, cracks, and under furniture where foggers
cannot reach. Choose the product(s) you use with care,
taking into account the presence of children, fish,
birds, persons with asthma, etc. Your veterinarian can
help you choose the appropriate products for your
situation. In severe infestations, you may need the help
of a professional exterminator.
-
Wash your pet's bedding weekly and treat the bed and
surrounding area with a product that contains both an
adulticide and an insect growth regulator.
- Do not forget to also clean and treat your automobile,
pet carrier, garage, basement, or any other place your
pet spends much time.
Flea Control in the Outdoor
Environment
Flea control in the outdoor environment generally
involves treating the yard and kennel areas where fleas are
most likely to occur. Fleas tend to like it where it is
moist, warm, shady, and where there is organic debris. They
will also tend to be where pets spend more of their outdoor
time. So be sure to concentrate on areas such as patios,
under porches, dog houses, etc.
Rake away any organic debris such as leaves, straw, grass
clippings, etc., to disturb flea habitat and allow any flea
and tick product you use outdoors to penetrate.
If you are going to treat your yard, we prefer an
environmentally safe spray containing fenvalerate for this
purpose. There are also sprays which contain insect growth
regulators which can be used.
You may need to treat the yard every 7 to 21 days
depending on the product. Regardless of the product used,
remember not to spray when or where runoff could go into
lakes or rivers. Read the label on all insecticides
thoroughly and apply them as directed.
Flea Control on Your Pet
Now that we've taken care of the fleas in your home and
treated the "hot spots" in your yard, it's time to
eliminate the fleas that are on your pet. There are a number
of flea control products for use on pets, including
once-a-month topical products, sprays, dips, shampoos,
collars, powders, oral, and injectable products. With any
product applied directly to the pet, please remember that
you may see some live fleas on your pet for a short time
after spraying, shampooing, dipping, etc. In order for the
fleas to die, they must come into contact with the
insecticide, and absorb it.
Keep in mind that until all of the fleas in your home
have died, you will probably still see some fleas, even on a
treated pet, since some immature forms may continue to
develop. This is especially true if you had a big flea
problem to start with. Persistence is the key here. It is
essential to keep following an effective flea control
program for a long enough time to get rid of all of the
fleas, in all life stages. This may take several weeks to 6
months or more, depending on your particular situation.
Once-a-month
Topicals: Once-a-month topical insecticides are
applied to a small area on your pet's back, are probably the
easiest product to use, and generally last the longest. Some
kill fleas and ticks, and others just kill fleas, so check
the label carefully. Ingredients generally include
permethrin, pyrethrin, or fipronil. Examples include Bio
Spot, Advantage, K9 Advantix, Frontline Top Spot,
Revolution, and Defend. Since many dog products can be very
harmful if used on cats, read the label carefully. Remember:
Do NOT use products containing permethrins on cats.
Sprays: Flea and tick
control sprays can come as aerosols or pump bottles. When
using a spray, you do not have to soak the pet with the
spray, but be sure to spray all parts of the animal. Spray a
small amount on a cotton ball to apply the product around
the eyes and ears. Do not get any of these products in the
eyes. Follow your veterinarian's and the manufacturer's
directions on how often to spray, and spray in a
well-ventilated area.
Dips: Dips and rinses are
applied to the entire animal. They generally have some
residual activity. They should be applied in a
well-ventilated area according to your veterinarian's and
the manufacturer's directions. It is helpful to put cotton
balls in the pet's ears and ophthalmic ointment in the pet's
eyes. Even with these precautions, be very careful not to
get any of the product in the pet's ears or eyes. Dips or
rinses may contain pyrethrins, permethrins or
organophosphates.
Shampoos: Flea and tick
shampoos help to primarily rid the pet of the fleas and
ticks he already has on him, although some have residual
activity. To properly use a flea & tick shampoo you must
be sure to work the shampoo in over the entire body and then
leave it on at least 10 minutes before you rinse it off.
Again, remember to protect the eyes and ears of the pet.
Shampoos often contain pyrethrins.
Collars: Flea & Tick
Collars can be effective, but must be applied properly. To
get the right degree of snugness, you should just be able to
get two fingers between the collar and your pet's neck. Be
sure to cut off any excess portion of the collar after you
have properly applied it. Otherwise, that animal or other
pets may try to chew on the end. Check the package for
information on duration of effectiveness since some collars
lose effectiveness when they get wet, e.g., if your dog
swims a lot. Watch carefully for any irritation under the
collar. If this occurs, you may need to use a different
product.
Do NOT use collars containing Amitraz,
permethrin, or organophosphates on cats.
Oral and Injectable Products:
Program, a product containing an insect development
inhibitor is available as a tablet for dogs and cats and as
an injectable for cats. The tablets are given once a month;
the injection is given every 6 months. Program does not kill
the adult fleas, so if you have fleas, you MUST also use
something to kill the adults. Capstar, another oral product,
is approved for use in dogs and cats. It will kill adult
fleas, but only for a period of 24 hours or less. It is
useful in situations such as boarding, grooming, and prior
to surgery. Because Capstar is out of your pet's system in
24 hours, it should be followed with a longer-lasting
product that will work on both adult and immature fleas
Flea Combs: Flea combs are
often overlooked as a valuable tool in removing fleas. Your
pet will love the extra, hands-on attention he gets as you
comb through his coat. Flea combs are absolutely non-toxic
and are the best method to use on ill, pregnant, or infant
pets. Be sure to choose a comb that has 32 teeth/inch. Comb
your pet and then place the fleas you comb off in detergent
water, which will kill them. The disadvantage to flea
combing is that it takes a considerable amount of time, and
will not be effective in pets that have flea bite
hypersensitivity.
PREVENTION --- PREVENTION ---
PREVENTION
The best flea control is always flea prevention.
Repellents are a cornerstone of prevention. Pyrethrins and
permethrins have flea repellent activity. (NOTE: Permethrins
should NOT be used on cats.) Using products containing these
insecticides will help keep fleas away and prevent a flea
problem from developing.
Regular use of insect growth regulators/development
inhibitors will reduce the risk of fleas becoming
established in the indoor and outdoor environment.
Before they are allowed in their house or kennel areas,
pets should be given a flea bath after they have been
boarded, played with pets from other households, or visited
places where other animals have been (e.g., dog parks).
Flea control is complicated by the fact that there are
many wild animals which serve as 'reservoirs' for flea
populations. Fleas can infest over 50 species of animals
worldwide. In the United States, coyotes, fox, raccoons,
some rodent species, skunks, opossums, rabbits, and ferrets
can all harbor cat fleas. Flea control is also hampered by
the evidence that some fleas are developing resistance to
some of our flea control products, especially
organophosphates. If there is a severe problem in your
geographical area (some areas in the southern United
States), treating the environment with pyrethroid-containing
compounds may be indicated.
© 2006 Foster & Smith, Inc.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from PetEducation.com
(http://www.PetEducation.com)
On-line store at
http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208
The Chihuahua Club of America Thanks Drs. Foster &
Smith for use of their articles.
